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Alternative Guide to Chicago

Uptown

Community Highlights

Originally intended as an escape for wealthy Chicagoans seeking a slower-paced life, Uptown grew into a rich and vibrant community that is now full of history. The twentieth century marked Uptown's glamour years. From 1907 to 1917, Uptown guided the American film industry. During the 1920s, Uptown had a large concentration of nightclubs and theaters in the city-second only to downtown. Given its success, the neighborhood was home to a strong middle class as well as to wealthy residents. Uptown was graced with mansions, luxury apartments, and five-star hotels. However, Uptown went into a decline after World War II; much of the area was dominated by gangs, and the community became so violent that the neighborhood that is now Edgewater petitioned to officially separate from Uptown. In addition to that misfortune, the housing shortage of World War II necessitated the partitioning of many of the larger luxury apartments to accommodate Chicago's poor and the 1950s influx of Appalachian whites, Japanese Americans, and Native Americans. In the 1960s, life in Uptown improved with the formation of social service groups and concerned community organizations.

Uptown is now one of Chicago's most ethnically diverse neighborhoods, being home to African Americans, Native Americans, Vietnamese, and Mexicans'to name just a few. The area is teeming with fun attractions to enjoy, including the Green Mill, Aragon Ballroom, Riviera Theater, and Uptown Theater. For a bit of history, be sure to visit both the Vietnam War Museum and also Graceland Cemetery, which is the final resting place of many famous persons. And be sure to check out Little Saigon on Argyle Street, the center of Vietnamese culture in Uptown. The neighborhood also has Foster Beach and Montrose Beach, as well as the Marovitz Golf Course and Montrose Harbor.

Broadway is the main street, and was formerly the terminal stop of the CTA Red Line. The borders of Uptown are Foster to the north, Montrose and Irving Park to the south, Lake Michigan to the east, and Ravenswood and Clark to the west.

Eateries, Shops, and Other Destinations

Café Dada
1507 West Foster Avenue
773-907-0727
Coffee shop and bakery
Vegetarian friendly
$

Sip your coffee in this cosmopolitan coffee shop that's politically conscious and very chic. A favorite of artists, struggling and well fed, the walls showcase the works of some of Chicago's most innovative talents. A filling meal can easily be had for under $10. Their Bosnian pies, doughy and creamy with a design resembling a quiche, are delicious. Though their delicate Parisian crepes are renowned, my crepe was somewhat too crisply done with an inadequately sweet banana filling. Handmade pizzas, soups, and sandwiches also decorate the menu. The service is somewhat slow. But the atmosphere is to be savored, and there is free wireless Internet access. Cash only.

Hai Yen
1055 West Argyle Street
773-561-4077
Vietnamese
$

This bright, clean restaurant is probably one of the most upscale on Argyle Street. Try the delicious spring rolls with fresh herbs. The wide variety of noodle dishes includes noodle soups such as traditional beef pho and fried noodles. The menu includes many traditional Vietnamese dishes that are not available at other restaurants.

Middle Eastern Pastry and Bakery
1512 West Foster Avenue
773-561-2224
Middle Eastern bakery
$

In this popular store you can find at least five varieties of fresh hummus and the pita is oven fresh. Coffees, teas, olive oils, and fruit nectars are neatly displayed, and their bakery creates some of the best baklava ever. Also sold are: pies for under $2 that are filled with ingredients like chicken, eggplant, and artichoke; an excellent assortment of spices; and an inexpensive selection of quality dried fruits.

Pho 777
1055 West Argyle Street
773-561-9909
Vietnamese
$

This is a typical, good Vietnamese pho stand-in, although Pho Xe Tang down the street probably has better broth. The beef pho here comes packed with ingredients you can select, such as beef flank, tendon, and brisket. The restaurant also has a good, fresh spring roll appetizer for $5. Pho 777 has quick turnaround for take-out. But if you are ordering pho, note that only the large size for $6.50 is available for take-out.

Pho Xe Tang
4953 North Broadway Avenue
773-878-2253
Vietnamese
$

Pho Xe Tang, also known as Tank Restaurant, has some of the best Vietnamese pho in town. The restaurant serves many different varieties. The classic beef version has light, flavorful broth, and is filled with pho noodles, and slices of rare beef, as well as deliciously tender brisket, tendon, and tripe. You can always order the soup without certain items. The normal bowl is $5, and an extra large is $6. The restaurant also has a good pho that is filled with chunks of seafood, as well as vegetable pho. Avoid the deep-fried appetizers, though, as they tended to be over-fried. The restaurant is accessible by Red Line El (Argyle stop).

Ras Dashen
5846 North Broadway Avenue
773-506-9601
Ethiopian
Vegetarian friendly
$$

In the mood for something unusual? Customers can admire the Ethiopian mementos and artwork while sitting on stools at communal basket tables. All food is served on injera, a spongy pancake-like bread, and eaten with your hands. Service was very good; the waiters are friendly and excellent at helping you choose complementary dishes and drinks. The food was delicious and fun to eat with a group of friends. There are also vegetarian options, which are just as sumptuous as their meat counterparts. This place is definitely for the adventurous but absolutely worth a try.

Taste of Lebanon
1509 West Foster Avenue
773-334-1600
Lebanese
Vegetarian friendly
$

For the only authentic Lebanese food in Chicago, visit this storefront restaurant that serves savory falafel and famous chicken schwarma. With their many varieties of salads among other vegetable-based dishes, Taste of Lebanon is very vegetarian friendly. The stuffed grape leaves are temptingly tart. Fresh vegetable platters can be prepared upon request. Their baklava is beautifully buttery, so be sure to try at least one piece. Cash only.

Thai Binh
1113 West Argyle Street
773-728-0283
Vietnamese
Vegetarian friendly
$

As soon as you walk into this delicious Vietnamese restaurant, which is located no more than fifty feet from the Argyle Red Line stop, you'll be seeing red. Not figuratively, but literally. There must be some symbolism to the color because the whole restaurant glows with it, with mirrors and silk flowers abounding. This is very much a family restaurant, and the 200-plus items on the menu are all essentially home-cooked Vietnamese food. If you've come with a group, order one of the dinners for four. If you're there with one or two other people, the vermicelli noodle bowls are excellent (#46, with shredded pork, will always have my heart!). The lemongrass shrimp are another favorite; the shrimp is perfectly cooked, not too chewy. The spring roll appetizer is tasty too, with a delightful peanut sauce-just make sure to specify only one order, as Linda, the waitress, has a habit of bringing two (or maybe that's just for me!). Other highlights on the menu include the green onion omelete/pancake appetizer, the mixed seafood platter, and the catfish in a clay pot (part of the aforementioned family dinner for four). And make sure to try the Vietnamese coffee-thick, sweet, and strong. Note: The vegetarian options, while they exist, are limited.

More Attractions

Aragon Ballroom
1106 West Lawrence Avenue
773-561-9500
Admission: $10+

The Aragon Ballroom has hosted all types of shows throughout its 79-year history. From classy ball receptions to more alternative, Latin, or rock-focused performances, the Spanish-inspired dcor provides a nice backdrop for lively concerts, often packing in as many as 4,500 people. The historic setting where Duke Ellington and the Smashing Pumpkins have played adds a touch of wonder to this ballroom.