Alternative Guide to Chicago
Chinatown
Community Highlights
Chinese immigrants started moving west from the Pacific states after the completion of the transcontinental railroad around 1870, searching for work but also fleeing anti-Chinese prejudices. Mr. T. C. Moy is said to be the first Chinese settler in Chicago, and by the early 1900s there were more successful Chinese restaurants and laundry businesses than there were Chinese people a decade before. The largest wave of Chinese immigrants came in the mid-twentieth century, and in 1970 Chicago had the fourth-largest Chinese population in the country. Due to anti-Chinese sentiment in Chicago, a large segment of the Chinese population moved south from Clark and Van Buren to Cermak and Wentworth in 1905. Although the Chinese community was growing, the area around Chinatown went through a series of land partitions-for the 1933 World's Fair and the building of the Stevenson and the Dan Ryan expressways'that reduced the size of Chinatown by more than 50 percent. Chinatown is now between Cermak Road to the north, Wentworth Avenue to the east, railroads to the west, and 26th Street to the south.
The Chinatown community provides many services for new immigrants, who make up about 70 percent of the current Chinatown population. Both the Chinese American Service League and the Chinese Consolidated Benevolence League aid recent immigrants. The Chinese Dragon Athletic Association, Chinatown Chamber of Commerce, and Chinese American Development Corporation also play roles in maintaining and revitalizing Chinatown. There are also two notable stone lions on either side of the entrance to the Chinatown branch of the Chicago Public Library at 24th Street and Wentworth Avenue.
Eateries, Shops, and Other Destinations
Aji Ichiban
2117-A South China Place
312-328-9998
Chinese
$
Cute, famous Asian snack shop franchise, but a little pricey considering the fare. Tons of Asian candy, chocolate, and dried fruit and fish. There's a bead shop in the back. They also sell rare Chinese teas, such as rose bud and dragon's well, at a steep price. It's fun to browse through (and sample!) their ever-changing selection. Try the various fruit gummies and rock chocolates.
B.B.Q. King House
2148 South Archer Avenue
312-326-1219
Chinese
$
Great place if you want traditional BBQ pork or duck. In fact, ducks hang by their necks in the front of the store. You can purchase your choice of meat at half-pound increments. If the thought of the poor duck hanging in the window frightens you, don't watch while the butcher cuts up your purchase! A half-pound will provide enough for two to three meals.
Captain Café and Bakery
2229 South Wentworth Avenue
312-225-8883
Chinese coffee shop and bakery
$
Captain Café and Bakery has a pretty great selection of Chinese pastries and foods. In the caf, you'll hear the English chatter of tourists as well as the animated Chinese conversations that let you know that you're getting real Chinese food. The prices are incredible. I would highly suggest the sesame ball with red beans and the three-for-a-dollar egg tarts, which are a great buy for an awesome, traditional dessert. A lot of the foods would be great heated, so take some home and pop them in the microwave!
Chiu Quon Bakery
2242 South Wentworth Avenue
312-225-6608
Chinese bakery
Vegetarian friendly
$
Ever wonder where the Chinese Undergraduate Students Association (CUSA) gets its commodities for its famous bun sales? This is the place. Rumored to make the best BBQ pork buns in Chinatown, it also offers a wide selection of traditional Chinese pastries as well as elaborate cakes and pastries. Their selection includes egg custard tarts, moon cakes, sesame balls, sweet top buns, butter top buns, and coconut buns. They also sell a selection of Chinese beverages, including green tea and fresh soybean milk. There is a sitting area in the back, making it a great place to stop for a snack. There are a lot of bakeries in Chinatown, but this one is definitely one of the best-if not the best.
Evergreen Restaurant
2411 South Wentworth Avenue
312-225-8898
Chinese
Vegetarian friendly
$$
Located at the end of Old Chinatown away from most of the hustle and bustle, Evergreen is arguably one of the best restaurants in the area. Its accommodating service creates a friendly atmosphere, and its comfortable dcor avoids the generic dragon and phoenix adornment found in most Chinatown restaurants. Though its Szechwan dishes may be a tad sweet, its undoubtedly authentic Cantonese courses will have you coming back for more. Its salted-and-peppered fried tofu is ridiculously delicious, but don't hesitate to try the sweet walnut shrimp or tender pepper steak. When you're in Chinatown, Evergreen is the place you should eat dinner.
Great Wall Chinese Restaurant
2127 South China Place
312-808-9686
Chinese
$
If you're looking for an alternative to B.B.Q. King House, Great Wall is it. If you don't feel like carting meat home and making a mess on the Red Line, have a seat and order the soya chicken. For about $4 an entre, you get a bowl of herbal soup, all the tea you want, and a heaping plateful of chicken and rice. Ask for the green onion sauce to add a little kick to your soya chicken.
Happy Chef Dim Sum House
2164 South Archer Avenue
312-808-3689
Chinese
Vegetarian friendly
$
If you're looking to have hot dim sum served until 2 a.m. without all the bother of carts, Happy Chef is your place. Slightly less expensive than its large-scale competitor, Phoenix Restaurant, servers bring your orders directly to your table. Can't read Chinese? Not a problem'the names of all dim sum items are also written in English on the menu. For all you Cantonese speakers: Specify your choice of tea to the waiter, or else you'll get plain ol' Lipton.
House of Fortune
2407 South Wentworth Avenue
312-225-0880
Chinese (Cantonese)
$$
House of Fortune is located in the southernmost part of Chinatown. The restaurant is clean and well run. The food in general is good. But beware of ordering dishes that are not classic Cantonese dishes, such as the Peking duck. The sauted vegetables, which were not on the menu (you can just ask them what they have available), were excellent. Order the restaurant's fresh red snapper (about $15 for a whole fish). I found it to be phenomenal-deliciously succulent with a juicy broth. You can take the Red Line to Chinatown, but be prepared to walk another ten to fifteen minutes to get to the restaurant.
Joy Yee Noodle
2159 South China Place
312-328-0001
Chinese
$$
Even claustrophobia could be conquered for the sake of Joy Yee's incredible array of Asian food and drink served in this extremely small and usually crowded restaurant. Be prepared to spend five or ten minutes waiting for a table and at least fifteen minutes just mulling over the never-ending menu that holds great rice dishes (including a variety of fried rice choices served in hollowed-out pineapples), all kinds of noodles, and many other traditional Asian dishes. You absolutely must order one of their infinite drink choices. Their freezes are fantastic and come in pretty much every fruit combination you could ever imagine. Add tapioca to your freeze if you're feeling adventurous. Their large portions allow you to take at least half of your drink and entre home with you-believe me, you'll want to take this food home. My personal favorite so far is the ma po tofu with pork over rice, but the Thai curry egg noodle with chicken is equally impressive. If you are in Chinatown, this is definitely your best bet.
Ken Kee Restaurant
2129 South China Place
312-326-2088
Chinese
$
Reminiscent of little cafs in Hong Kong, Ken Kee provides a wide variety of items, from congee and wonton noodle soup to more elaborate dinner entres like black pepper beef (heijiao tieban niulao). With dishes running around $6, you'll get a satisfying meal without breaking the bank. If you're craving a late-night meal, Ken Kee is open until 2 a.m.
Lao Sze Chuan Spice City
2172 South Archer Avenue
312-326-5040
Chinese
Vegetarian friendly
$$
Because of its location, I missed out on Lao for my first two years at the University of Chicago. After I found out about it, however, it became my favorite place in Chinatown. The menu is huge; even after going consistently for two years, I don't think I've tried everything on the menu. Among the must-haves are the pot stickers. Also, hot pot cooking seems to be very popular with large groups. But even if you just order dishes off the menu, you will leave full and with a doggy bag. Some have said that Lao has too many spicy dishes, but you can always find a milder item. The wait staff is amazingly warm-more than willing to help you navigate the large menu and explain the difference between emperor and governor's chicken. Try Lao, and you'll never call any other restaurant your regular Chinatown spot. While there are vegetarian options, you can't simply rely on the vegetarian section of the menu. You should definitely ask the waiter when you get there about your dietary needs. If all else fails, order the spicy shredded potato.
Moon Palace Shanghai
216 West Cermak Road
312-842-2390
Chinese (Mandarin)
$
Serves authentic Shanghai specialties-you can't miss out on the xiao long bao (little dragon buns) and lau mein w/pork and bamboo sauce. Exotic Chinese dishes-shark's fin soup anyone? There are also familiar favorites such as General Tso's chicken and beef with broccoli. Nice ethnic ambience with pictures of famous places in Shanghai on the walls. One of the nicer restaurants in Chinatown. Helpful and attentive service. Great food!! You should go just to try the Shanghai fare.
Penang
2201 South Wentworth Avenue
312-326-6888
Malaysian and Japanese
Vegetarian friendly
$$
If you're looking for something besides your traditional Chinese fare, try Penang. It's the only Malaysian place in Chinatown, as far as I know. It also has a sushi bar with a number of Japanese entres. The food is delicious. There are a lot of unique dishes-if you are adventurous, this is the place for you-but they do have a nice selection of fried rice as well. For an appetizer, the roti canai, a thin Indian-style pancake served with curry chicken dipping sauce, is quite popular. The mango chicken (or shrimp) is a must-try (my personal favorite!!). The queen's style tofu, served with chicken and scallops, is also delicious. If you've never tried Japanese tofu, they serve that too. There's a large selection of seafood; lamb and duck are also available. The place has ritzy tropical theme going on, as well as mood lighting. It was really busy when I went, but service was prompt. Their slogan says it all: "You've tried the rest; now try the best!"
Phoenix
2131 South Archer Avenue
312-328-0848
Chinese
$$
Rated one of Chicago's ten best Chinese restaurants by 10best.com, the cuisine at the Phoenix is simply delicious. Despite its lack of premium dcor and service, it consistently produces well-prepared dishes. From the chow mein to the pork dumplings, this place is definitely worth a taste.
Saint Anna Bakery and Cafe
2158 South Archer Avenue
312-225-3168
Chinese coffee shop and bakery
$
A glass case filled with Chinese pastries and desserts entices you to enter this bakery and caf. Although there are only a few tables for in-store dining, a nice menu of Chinese dishes is also available. Both food and service are prompt and basic.
Spring World Chinese Restaurant
2109-A South China Place
312-326-9966
Chinese
$
The authenticity of the Chinese food here is loudly supported by the Chinese news show on their TV, the free hot tea that they start you off with, and the fact that the waiters automatically speak to you in Chinese if there's the most remote chance that you're Chinese. They have a huge variety of dishes that range from egg drop soup to more exotic entres. The Chinese chive cake is a really great appetizer that can be shared by three or four people.
Tea Leaf Café
2336 South Wentworth Avenue, #105
312-808-3668
American and Chinese
Vegetarian friendly
$
A lesser-known alternative to Joy Yee's for late-night bubble tea, TLC (as it is referred to in-house) has a variety of options for hot, cold, or freeze drinks. It is open later than Joy Yee's-until midnight during the week and 2 a.m. on the weekend. Patrons can also choose from a menu of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, and quick Asian cuisine. TLC also offers wireless Internet access and seasonal outdoor seating. In some circles, this establishment is known as a hot spot for the young, hip, and Asian set; when I went, however, people of varying ethnicities, ages, and degrees of cool were present.
Ten Ren Tea and Ginseng Co. of Chicago, Ltd.
2247 South Wentworth Avenue
312-842-1171
Tea shop
This tea shop offers a huge selection of tea, with samples available in-store. This nationwide chain showcases high-quality teas, as well as knowledgeable salespeople to help you with your choice.
Three Happiness Restaurant
209 West Cermak Road
312-842-1964
Chineses
Vegetarian friendly
$$
Conveniently located right in front of the Red Line stop, the Three Happiness Restaurant is a popular destination for Chinatown visitors. Its casual, loud atmosphere along with equally casual yet effective service are common features of average-quality Chinatown restaurants. If you don't feel like searching for another place to eat, its fried rice and dim sum are recommended. Just make sure to check the dim sum before ordering, or else you might end up with some congealed tofu.
More Attractions
Mural
The Chinatown mural is a little more personalized than the Nine Dragons Wall because it is made up of hand-painted tiles that depict the history of the Chinese in America.
Nine Dragons Wall
The Nine Dragons Wall is a beautiful work to admire as you walk from the Red Line stop into Chinatown. There is a similar wall in Beihai Park in Beijing.
Statues
My personal favorite is the group of twelve statues in Chinatown Square that represent the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac. The square is a nice place to hang out while waiting for a table at Joy Yee's or drinking a bubble tea.
