Alternative Guide to Chicago
Bronzeville
Community Highlights
Originally called the "Black Metropolis," the area between Wentworth and Cottage Grove and between 26th and 51st is today known as Bronzeville. Between 1900 and 1950, 120,000 African Americans moved from the South to Chicago, making this neighborhood a cultural hub for African Americans across the nation. In its prime, it was a community replete with successful local papers, insurance companies, retail establishments, charities, and a solid network of churches and clubs. After World War II, the Chicago blues scene reached its height in Bronzeville nightclubs, which hosted such acts as Howlin' Wolf, James Cotton, Muddy Waters, B. B. King, Willie Dixon, Ruth Brown, and Buddy Guy. Among the more famous former residents of Bronzeville are Ida B. Wells, Louis Armstrong, Thomas Dorsey, Richard Wright, and Gwendolyn Brooks. In the 1960s many elements of the neighborhood fell apart. However, after decades of decline, Bronzeville is now undergoing a cultural and commercial regeneration that includes new community-based businesses and initiatives that highlight Bronzeville's rich heritage. Elements of the Great Migration are detailed in a series of in-ground plaques at 35th Street and Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive, which is considered to be the gateway to the historic Black Metropolis.
Eateries, Shops, and Other Destinations
Blu 47
4655 South Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive
773-536-6000
Contemporary American
$$$
"Casually elegant" is how this upscale, soulful eatery describes its atmosphere. An alternative to the many chic locations of the downtown scene, Blu 47 offers all their grace while remaining warm and welcoming. The menu features many innovative appetizers and entrees. Patrons rave over items such as the grilled chicken "lollipops" and the crab-and-spinach-stuffed-catfish. And others enjoy the space as they meet friends for drinks or to listen to live jazz on Thursday nights.
Bronzeville's Bed & Breakfast
3911 South Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive
773-373-8081
American
$$$
Bronzeville's first bed-and-breakfast is located in the sprawling 5,500-square-foot former Goldblatt's mansion. In addition to fourteen guest rooms, there's a full-service restaurant and salon/day spa that are both open to non-overnight guests. The restaurant serves classic southern specialties, like smothered biscuits and warm peach cobbler. Professional butler service is offered.
The crowd is predominately African American. The decor is vintage and inviting. Prepare to be left alone for a long while on Sundays when they tend to get crowded and there is only one butler serving two rooms. The food is mediocre for the price. I have not been back for the food, but the spa service is good. So try it out and decide for yourself.
Chat Room
3428 South Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive
312-791-1300
Coffee shop
$
This coffeehouse/meeting spot offers good brew, good food, and good entertainment-with their open mic and live music nights.
Connie's Pizza
2373 South Archer Avenue
312-326-3443
American
$
This South Side pizzeria offers many varieties of thin-crust pizza, as well as other options.
D Seafood
2738 South Wells Avenue
312-808-1086
American
$
This seafood joint offers affordable seafood just how we like it: deep fried and greasy.
Jimmy's Red Hots
100 East 35th Street
312-225-8238
American
$
This establishment serves your basic hot dogs and condiments. Make sure to bring your cash'this place doesn't take checks or credit cards.
Mississippi Rick's
3351 South Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive
312-791-0090
Soul food
$
Rick's serves good, traditional, down-home southern food-chicken, ribs, and fish-for cheap. It's perfect for the college student's budget!
Negro League Café 301 East 43rd Street
773-536-7000
American and soul food
Vegetarian friendly
$$
This Bronzeville spot is a tribute to the athletes who played in baseball's Negro Leagues prior to the desegregation of major league teams in the 1940s. The menu features soul food and traditional American food with some kick. The restaurant is decorated with baseball-themed folk art, and a Wall of Fame honors players like Satchel Paige. What you pay for your meal helps to finance the Negro League Pension Fund. Just a hint: Bring a snack or order the delicious buffet, as service can be slow. Also, be sure to get a booth in the restaurant. Order the chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich, turkey burger, or chicken wings. The menu is friendly to those who don't eat red meat, but vegetarian options are limited to three dishes plus side vegetable dishes. The buffet features freshly cooked soul food favorites like fried chicken, collard greens, candied yams, macaroni and cheese, and peach cobbler.
The Café is a hot nightspot and a great sports bar. The crowd is predominately African American. There is live jazz on Fridays after 8 p.m. On Sundays there's a gospel brunch during the day and a poetry open mic in the evening.
Pearl's Place
3901 South Michigan Avenue
773-285-1700
Soul food
$$$
Dining at Pearl's Place is like going home for supper. The atmosphere is warm and inviting and you really get the sense you're surrounded by family as you enjoy dishes with that "homemade" style and flavor. A full menu of Sourthern soul food features items such as candied sweet potatoes, collard greens, friend chicken (cooked to order), catfish, and macaroni and cheese. Service can be described as minimal, but this is the place to go if you're craving comfort food at its best.
Popeye's Famous Fried Chicken
300 East 35th Street
312-225-4466
Southern
$
The Popeye's chain has a branch conveniently located in this area that dishes up their time-honored fried chicken (spicy Cajun style or mild) and buttery biscuits (plain; or with honey, strawberry jam, or apple jelly). You can also get a hearty helping of red beans and rice, mashed potatoes with a devilishly delicious gravy, New Orleans style shrimp, and French fries. Their apple pies are also guaranteed to satisfy!
Reggio's Pizza
3461 South Martin Luther King, Jr., Drive
312-791-9666
American
$
This Bronzeville pizzeria serves up pizza pies in a no-frills store.
Taurus Flavors
106 East 35th Street
312-842-7871
Ice cream shop
$
This ice cream shop offers affordable choices to fend off the humid Chicago weather.